History
The first known descent of Poe was by Jenny (Hall) West and Mike Bogart in August of 1981. The tale of their exploration is truly impressive, and I highly recommend reading Jenny’s account which offers a glimpse into elements of that exploration.
For nearly 30 years after this descent, there were very few parties who descended the canyon. In 2007, Jason Pease went on a solo scouting trip to the area, and introduced his findings to Steve Ramras. With Tom Jones and Brian Hoffman, Ram descended the adjacent canyons Happy Dog and Baboon Laughs, surprised to find old bolts in the canyons. They were not able to squeeze Poe into their schedule (at that point, Poe was known as Smiling Cricket). With knowledge of two of the three canyons, Jason returned with partner Mark Fleck in Spring of 2008 hoping to descend the last of the three canyons: Poe. Their descent, including an overnight bivy, is detailed on the Summitpost page for “Smiling Cricket.”
The Name
“Originally called ‘L’ Canyon for the ‘L’ in ‘Fold’ on the map, it was later called ‘Poe’ Canyon because of its pits and pendulums …”
The Pit and the Pendulum*
A short story written by Edgar Allen Poe, in which a prisoner, during the Spanish Inquisition, finds himself in a dark room, with blade–like pendulum slowly descending towards his chest. Though he escapes the pendulum, the walls of the room close in on him, pushing him closer to falling into a deep pit in the middle of the room. (Source: Canyon Names Database, curated by Stefan Folias)
The name “Poe” was unknown to Jason when he returned in 2008, when he referred to it as “Smiling Cricket.”
Jason Pease wrote:
“I love the blank spots, the places I have heard nothing or next to nothing about. Last year I was getting tired of canyons and wanted to just wander somewhere. [The Waterpocket Fold] caught my eye somehow, as well as, 3 canyons along it. I walked the rim of all 3, getting into [the first canyon] in 2 different places (seeing bolts) and seeing both from the bottom of their final drops. [The third canyon] I walked the south rim, but I got no good view down in, only a chasm with no bottom. Once back at camp the final night, I was laying on the sand in my bag, wondering what to call them for my own personal record keeping: ‘That First Canyon South That Actually Starts Midway Up’ didn’t have much panache. Nor did ‘That Second Canyon South’ or ‘Third Canyon South’ have a nice ring to it.
So I’m laying there watching clouds shape–shift by and light upon one that looks just like a dog’s head, big floppy ears, tongue wagging—a ‘Happy Dog.’ So it was written so shall it be done. Then I decided to keep that theme for the trio—creatures and joyful emotion (at least in word). I thought ‘Baboon Laughs’ because, as anyone who ever has visited a zoo knows, those damn things sit up in their trees and laugh or howl or whatever it is they are doing, making a ruckus of it all, but you can’t always see them. You know they’re there, but only in furtive glimpses. And that was how that canyon seemed—furtive glimpses laughing at me and an element of danger in the broken, jointed landscape of its rim and head. And ‘Smiling Cricket’ cause you NEVER see those things, but you hear them, soft and steady and infuriatingly undiscoverable. Try as you might you can’t find it, until you get down and dirty and on its level and finally come eye to antennae. But, if you’re like me, even though it is only a little insect, it creeps me out and my hand jerks away even as it darts out to silence the bugger so i can sleep. But that’s only if I am in a room with a lone cricket; sleeping outside I love their cacophony.”
After a few more descents, the community became aware of the original 1981 descent, and an effort has been made to honor the first name “Poe.”
Poe is one of the most difficult canyons descended to date on the Colorado Pleateau, and carefully selecting a strong team is highly recommended.
Great stuff Dan, I can’t wait to see finished piece.
PS: are you heading back to Asia this winter, if so lets coordinate a meetup and outing.
rick (doc)
Dude, that was SICK. Just seeing the preview made me nervous. Can’t wait to see what else you have on this. LOVED the picture on Flickr too.
nice! looks like an amazing slot.
Awesome trailer…very well done!
Awesome man
Wow. who are you guys? Looks like the discovery channel. nice job. regards, Jeff
Now this is what canyon(eer)ing is all about.. and the preview plays out really well. The source material and tight editing are a winning combination – Congratulations, Dan. Tom and Ram’s comments work well, too.
So I have watched this clip at leaset ten times now and I just get more excited each time to get back out an do more canyons. I can’t wait till the finished video. Great work, Dan on the video and great job in the canyon to all who went.
What a canyon! 11.5 hrs. camp to camp? Spidey must have been setting the pace. Amazing video and pics, thanks for sharing.
Very nice. Did you shoot this with your DSLR? -Richard
This a canyon that you should definantly bring your bolt kit to. A couple of well placed bolts will result in a more enjoyable experience. Will not affect the beauty of the canyon.
Peace
Holmes – but methinks you haven’t experienced the canyon without bolts. I can’t imagine it being any more enjoyable than it now is, with just a few of the original bolts in place, and the rest like a giant puzzle that needs to be solved by the next group through…
BOLTS?!?!?! The Canyon has been ghosted. It should be like climbing, once an aid route goes clean there is an ethic that says everyone there after should do it clean (with out hammering pitons). If there is no need for bolts then why add them? Rise yourself to the challange, don’t lower the challange to your level!
I personally along with a bunch of my friends aswell can’t wait to get into cricket and ghost it.
To us the challange is the main appeal, making your own anchors and finding your own solution to the problem at hand is a very rewarding experience.
Nice teaser Dan, I’ve probly watched it close to 20 times now. I’m excited to see the finished product. Good Job on the ghosting guys!
No offense but the non-boltesr here are conceited and vain. There is a feeling by many that you are entitled to certain difficult locations just because you can run up a pothole without any help or climb a keeper like spiderman. This canyon, and many more like them, can be experienced by a greater number of people more safely if a few well position bolts and anchors are placed in discreet locations. Please don’t give me the B.S. that it takes away from he natural beauty of the canyon either. I will be doing this canyon in the spring with my bolt kit. I’m not taking UNNECCARY risks so a few tough guys can say they did this without any help. If you really are that great do this canyon without any equipment! If you don’t want to use the new anchors just do it your old way and let some other people enjoy this magnificent place as well. Those who argue otherwise I simple egotistical, narcissistic and selfish beyond belief. Stay safe.
Peace
Holmes…watch out in there. Don’t assume that everyone can make the 44 foot bag toss. Or batman out on multiple cords or do the pit and the pendulum by doing the insanely dangerous hook holes to the precarious and bad bolt station 30 feet up where even putting in a bolt is beyond any measure of safety and then lean out on it off to the next station? Danger!!! Or even want to pendulum over the sharp edges there (now with over 40 feet of exposure) to get by the spot. Or do you plan to drill a dozen hook holes starting from a swimming position, doing the pot directing? There are many other spots that your kit won’t do squat for you. NO ONE can bolt this place into submission. Well maybe with 40 bolts or so. Oh yeah, remember that single bolt anchors are not considered safe, so those folks better bring 80.
Sometimes you can’t drill a canyon into something safe. Something that anyone can go to without much risk. This is one of those canyons. Assume you can put in a handful of drill holes and bolts and navigate the place within your safety margin. Then what about all the other people with less skill than you? Shouldn’t they be “entitled” to go too? Where is the line, Sir Holmes?
Addressing some of your other quotes
Holmes says….This canyon, and many more like them, can be experienced by a greater number of people more safely if a few well position bolts and anchors are placed in discreet locations.
OK, define greater number people? Everyone? Surely you don’t wish to exclude others? That would be as you said “conceited and vain.” of you. Just your skill set and above? Anyone with less skill than you and a hammer with more bolts? How many bolts would you consider too many? How many drill holes OK? Of course drill holes blow out and new ones will be needed. Where does the line get drawn? Who gets to draw it? AND we are not trying to draw that line either. Only making suggestions, offering ideas and solutions, challenging ourselves and others. Its called advocacy. If it is a good idea it will take with some and then with more folks latter. The reason we are putting the video together, will be to show new and safe techniques for descending canyons. I hope we can nudge you toward experimenting with these new methods and bury the kit at the bottom of the pack, for emergencies only
Holmes says…”I’m not taking UNNECESSARY risks so a few tough guys can say they did this without any help”
When we went back last month, to finish the ghosting of the place, Spidey was not on hand. We brought good, but not great athletes and these folks were very skeptical of the new techniques. This was part of the experiment. Will sound, very experienced anchor technicians buy into to the new ideas. We did nearby canyons after the Cricket descent without the plan of ghosting necessarily. Guess what? The new folks passed on every one of the “single” bolt stations. Not because they are anti bolt. They aren’t. They passed on it because the sand trap was faster, easier and safer, in their expert judgment. Give it a chance. You very well might view it differently too.
Holmes says….”If you don’t want to use the new anchors just do it your old way and let some other people enjoy this magnificent place as well.”
That’s what we did. If a bolt couldn’t come out by hand, it is still there. Some other people? Who? Who decides the line. Shouldn’t everyone be able to….. Back here again?
Holmes says…”No offense but the non-boltesr here are conceited and vain. Those who argue otherwise I simple egotistical, narcissistic and selfish beyond belief.”
Well its hard not to take offense being that one can’t fairly claim to “know” the mind of another and to be called so many unflattering names to boot. I don’t want to “win” the argument. I don’t want to contest that game. I want some folks to try new ideas. So many folks, myself at times too, have trouble stepping outside their own vestment in their beliefs/argument. Makes seeing new views challenging. But could you see how someone with less skills than you thinking the things you said about us, about you? You who can do it with just a handful or bolts and perhaps drill holes. They need more. The usual turn in the argument by my side at this point is…”what about handicap access?” I won’t insult you with that, but can you see the point? Where is the line? When we started this project, we did so knowing that it was possible, perhaps probable, that many folks wouldn’t give a rats ass about our “new ideas.” That many would “just see new beta” and line up trips there, bolt hammer in hand. Now if you want to call me selfish, I could argue your point a little too. As for narcissistic and egotistical……couldn’t one say the same about a group of people who feel “entitled” to visit a place no matter the means necessary. The canyon has existed for a long time. There are canyons I am not good enough to do. They are beyond my skill set and with my advancing years, it is no longer a case of ‘getter better.” I can’t climb many, many mountains and crag routes. I suppose I could bolt or chip them enough to do some of them. I won’t. I suspect neither would you. How is this different? I’m not sure this is a good idea to put at the end. It will rile many and have me be attacked as an egotist and selfish all over again. I have explored canyons for a long time. I used to share many of the “new finds” with the community. As a rule, I don’t anymore. The the amount of places I could share keeps growing and I would like to share the wonders found. I no longer do and its these unresolved ethics issues that stop me from sharing. It makes me sad, even if it makes me selfish and egotistical in others eyes. So Holmes….any of my thoughts worthy of consideration? Do i still look like the narcissistic and vain egotist?
Ram
Holmes,
I apologize if you think this is somehow about ego. It is my guess that when someone doesn’t understand another person’s point of view, the easiest way to resolve the conflict in one’s own mind is to call someone “egotistical.” It’s nothing of the sort.
Techniques have been developed that, on many levels, are far more enjoyable than placing or using bolts. No one is arguing that bolts take away from a place’s beauty. Well placed bolts rarely do. We are simply advocating that places remain unbolted as much as possible, so that every group through gets a chance to work through the problem solving. That is the quality that keeps most of us going back to canyons, and the feature of most canyons that make them most enjoyable.
We don’t “ghost” canyons to prove we are tougher, or stronger, or bigger, or whatever. In fact, you’ll probably find that most of our group is mediocre in talent and strength. But, we do have a lot of techniques for solving canyon problems. And that’s our goal, is to share our experiences, so others can find canyons and solve them as well. That’s what it is all about.
But that said, if you want to bolt the place, we won’t stop you. We’ll simply suggest that bolting the canyon will probably make it harder than if you tried some other techniques.
Come to Freezefest. Meet some of us. Let’s share some canyons. Swap some ideas. I think you’ll find we are probably exactly the opposite of what you suggest.
– Dan
Congratulations to all of you who recently “ghosted” this beautiful little canyon. I am MOST IMPRESSED and applaud your commitment to this kind of ethic in these fragile places.
When Bogie and I first entered this canyon (nearly 30 years ago) the moment that we agreed we had exhausted our options and got out the bolt kit, I felt like we were diminishing the experience. At the same time, for me, it was an acknowledgement of my great humility for the canyon and the power and force alive there. It was bigger, better, stronger, trickier, more AWESOME than we were. It was not going to allow our passage without some sacrifice. So, we HAD to bolt/sling it. Still,it truly felt like I was littering in a sacred place. Litter or die?
(I’m not making justification to any of you, merely to myself.)
I would love to see the new arsenal of safety gear in action. Well done!
I’ve enjoyed reading the banter back and forth with you all, the NEW BREED. The photos are fabulous. I think I have only one. I look forward to getting out my journals, and continued to track some of your adventures from wet and beautiful B.C.
I’m a neophyte in this realm of internet communication but I did manage to discover the source of the new name, Smiling Cricket. Although I do LOVE the name, the sound of it, the image of it, etc. I have pondered long and hard about another aspect of it. I wanted to make sure, before I posted it out to “the internet ether”, that my motives were NOT ALL ABOUT ME AND MY EGO. I cannot honestly say now, that it does not have an element of just that. Still, it’s my birthday gift to myself to put it out there. So….
In reference to the naming of Frosted Flakes, Ram wrote: “So to the descenders goes the spoils of naming the place. What to do? … So…(he continues)…”
Although our group originally referred to this canyon as “L” (near “O” and “S”) when we first perused these canyons on our map, the first Experience of it, the first intimate touching of it, the first metal bolts that were drilled in her flanks, the first nylon streamers hung from her water courses, the first Descent with all that entails, resulted in the name “POE”.
Poe, not as beautiful a name as “Smiling Cricket” but the name that was born out of a rare and beautiful experience/adventure. The experience of being The First is truly something special and humbling, more and more. I cherish the few FIRSTS I have in my Life, as all of you do too, I’m sure.
So was this new name inspired by a cloud seen from camp or was there something in the canyon that spawned the name? I wonder if the place just MIGHT remember as I do, the unique and special relationship we established down there and the name that came out of it. I wonder what the Canyon would name us? You? Is it fair to change it? And based on what/who/why? Many native cultures don’t even place names on places. Does it even matter?
Something to ponder…Something to spark more controversy? (HA!) Do you canyoneers have rules about this kind of thing? Again, I’ve been out of the “game” for years so forgive my naivety if so.
Respectfully,
J West (aka Jenny Hall)
To J West: I am so glad you found out about our recent ghosting of Poe and approve. Many, many times on our trip I spoke of you and Mike Bogart’s incredible accomplishment of completing this canyon, and was hoping to find out more of what must have been a terrifying and wonderful experience.
I am awed by your success in completing this canyon, bolts or no.
To those who think bolts will make this canyon safe or easy, trust me, it won’t. Some of the bolt solutions to problems in the canyon are frighteningly intimidating and I am tremendously happy that we had better (safer, easier) alternatives. It is an incredibly difficult canyon and should only be attempted by the most experienced, well-prepared, and capable groups.
We have shown it can be ghosted, and the techniques we used were reliable, expedient, and safe. I would hope that future visitors to this incredible place treat it with the respect it deserves. Take the time to learn these techiques and your experience will be better, safer, and something to be proud of. Head in there with a bolt kit and a swagger and you may very well spend the rest of your short life in this canyon.
Personally, I love the challenge of using natural anchors and better, ghosting. And I find the aesthetic experience much, much greater as each drop is carefully examined, understood, and problem-solved into submission. The teamwork required in building, testing, and using natural and retrievable anchors is also a huge part of the experience–all but absent when clipping into existing bolts. I love these aspects of canyoneering enough to leave my bolt kit at home and come prepared for alternative solutions.
On our trip I asked why we weren’t calling the canyon Poe in deference Jenny (Hall) West and Mike Bogart’s incredible accomplishment in 1981. It will always be Poe to me…
–brendan
Jenny…..I am so excited that you found our reports of the descent. First of all I want to say that the techniques being used evolved over many years, coming from multiple sources and different groups. Each idea and group stood on the shoulders of those that came before and I feel it accurate to say that we all stand on yours. Feel no quilt about the bolts. You did not have the benefits of all the advances in the sport. I poked my head into few unknown canyons in the past 3 decades, so I know how bold it is to do so. Your groups accomplishments include some of the most challenging fare out there. Kudos!
Secondly, the reason why Smiling Cricket caught on as a name is it was talked about for some time before we found out its other and older name. I think Poe is a wonderful name. It comes from the Pit and the Pendulum is my guess? Is that true? Man, that was a scary spot to go high!! I am dying to hear more about it. But back on point. I will do what I can to support the original descenders most excellent name. Dan, perhaps we can start with the name of the video up top?
Ram
jenny,
it’s wonderful and an honor to hear your comments. many thanks for sharing them.
poe’s been one of my favorite poets since i was young and i thought the name was brilliant!
your descent of the canyon must have been an incredible experience. it would be great to hear about it in detail!
to answer your question, jason pease named that particular canyon ‘smiling cricket’ to reflect the fact that while he was able to get into the other two canyons to scout and explore a little when he first looked into those three canyons, he wasn’t actually able to get into poe/smiling cricket. so it was like a cricket chirping, that you can never see, but its chirping beckons you closer to try to see it — a metaphor for standing on the rim wanting to know what lies in the depths. you have to get down on the ground to see the cricket. of course, when he came back with a friend to get know the canyon he found that the cricket was a much bigger beast.
thanks for your inspiring history.
stefan
Great work guys!!! Amazing stuff. Brendan has told me about this trip and wow!!!!!!! Look forward to seeing more. Potts
Thanks you guys, for the kind words (and from some really Big Hitters in the world of canyoneering!). FYI, I’m in the process of reconnecting dormant brain synapses of the first descent; gathering facts and photos. It might make for an interesting comparative of the “old” technical tools and the “new” ghosting techniques. Pits, pendulums, mysterious blank bolt holes, frog vs. cricket…and your trip?…’looking forward to more specifics.
J W
Ask away Jenny as to our 3 trips out to that area. Did you read my trip report of our first time through, without ghosting on the Canyons Group?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canyons/message/47755
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canyons/message/47768
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/canyons/message/47776
I would love to know more about your adventures and the style. We can share where all the methods evolved from and from where to. I think we can anyway? Other question await too. Like my band of folks descended Kaleidoscope/Choprock in an April of the mid 1990’s I think? We found massive log jams in what we ended up calling the Grim Section ( Mid canyon- scary stuff). Some were 30 feet tall and 30 feet deep into the canyon. Four of them total. Would love to know if they were present when you descended in the early 80’s, wasn’t it? Love to narrow the timing of that significant flooding event. By the way, the log jams were washed out (A lot were seeded up high in the bombays and create problems in super high water still) on May 16th, 2000. Look forward to hearing more!
Ram
Hello All
It has been some time since I have thought about Poe Canyon (aka Smiling Cricket). I have enjoyed reading the trip reports and photos from the 3rd and successive descents of this awesome canyon. I would agree with others that, regardless of the techniques used by any descent party, this is a challenging canyon in the remotest of settings. A very rewarding experience awaits!
When Jason recruited me back in 2008 to join him in doing canyons in Halls Creek, I had no idea what I was in for. Jason had identified the potential slot canyons using Google Earth. He did a solo winter trip to see about accessing them. He wrote about the canyons on a forum, and another party investigated 2 of the 3 slots. The report was that the slots were fun half-day outings with some pot holes and a few rappels, and had been previously done, albeit long ago.
We planned a 4 day trip to the area with the intent of doing all 3 slots. We thought it best to start with the unknown 3rd slot which Jason had named Smiling Cricket. I won’t go into all the details of the epic–it has already been posted on Bogley. However, I just wanted to give props to the first descent team once again for their incredible achievement. While we didn’t have any beta for the canyon either, the bolts that were already in place were lifesavers (literally) for us. We didn’t plan on spending two long days in the canyon, and without the pre-existing anchors I am not sure we would have made it out. Rescue would have been at least 3 days away…
When I heard that the first descent party did this canyon in one long day, I was floored. What bad asses! As others have noted, climbing skills are imperative in this canyon, and I was very fortunate to have brought along canyoneering shoes that doubled as good climbing shoes. I am no stranger to climbing–I have been a serious climber for over 20 years with numerous big wall ascents. However, I can honestly say that the bypass climb and pendulums of the ‘pit’ were among the scariest moments of my climbing career. We were trusting single 1/4″ bolts in sandstone that were decades old. All I can say is that the bolts and hook holes were solid and the first descent party MUST have been very experienced with a drill, thankfully! -Mark Fleck
Dan
I am teaching a BSA canyon leader course in April touching on class C canyons and pothole escapes. As a climax to the the problem solving session I would like to play the Smiling Cricket video. Would you give me permission to do so.
Steve Businlaw@burgoyne.com
[…] Check Out Dan’s Amazing Video Preview HERE […]
Fantastic video & photos. On a different note to the interesting debate above I see most of these comments are from years ago describing it as a trailer. Is there anywhere to see the full completed video, as it sounds like not only would it have gorgeous scenery but some interesting explanations of clever techniques applied.
Lovely how canyons so famed for their orange reflected light also look so good in black & white – the top photo being especially wonderful. Out of interest is the foreground where Dan is t;aking the photo a giant dead end alcove with the canyon extending down the gap in the distance? If so, the geology is interesting how such an alcove could be carved out (unless the roof was once a hole that floods poured through which later collapsed), as there’s no river passing through which would have carved it out on a bend (like the big alcove bends in somewhere like Coyote Gulch)
Hi Ross. We didn’t release the full video after careful consideration. The canyon deserves to be treated as a wilderness, and we felt that a full video would be too revealing and diminish the adventure.
Not sure which image you are referring to exactly, the one with a person climbing out of a pothole is in the slot canyon. It is an immensely deep pothole, and crux of the entire slot canyon. I am in the bottom, looking downcanyon and into the sky.
The other image is the final drop in another canyon. The small person rappelling in upper right is finishing the final rappel in the canyon, and it ends in a giant riparian ballroom. The water drains off and to the left, down another small nontechnical slot canyon.